Replacing a roof is part protection, part investment. Done right, it guards your home from water and wind, improves energy performance, and can freshen curb appeal for decades. Below is a plain-English guide to roof replacement. We’ll overview common roofing materials and the start-to-finish process so you know what’s coming and where the big decisions lie.
Types
Asphalt shingles. Often called “tar shingles” in casual speech, today’s shingles are fiberglass-reinforced asphalt. They’re the most common choice thanks to a friendly price, fast installation, and broad style range. Architectural (laminated) shingles last longer and look thicker than basic three-tab. Typical lifespan is 20–30 years, with upgraded impact- or algae-resistant options available. Best for most pitched roofs and budgets.
Metal roofing. Steel or aluminum panels—either exposed-fastener or standing seam—shed water and snow exceptionally well, handle high winds, and can last 40–70 years with minimal maintenance. They cost more up front but weigh less than tile or slate and work well in wildfire-prone or heavy-snow regions. Standing seam pairs nicely with rooftop solar.
Concrete or clay tile. Heavy, durable, and classic. Tiles resist rot, insects, and coastal climates; clay holds color beautifully. Expect a 40–50+ year service life when installed on properly engineered framing. Weight is the key consideration—your structure must be rated to carry it.
Wood shingles and shakes. Cedar offers a warm, natural look with good insulation value. It needs proper ventilation and periodic care and may be limited by local fire codes unless pressure-treated. Lifespan varies widely with climate and maintenance.
Slate and synthetic slate. Natural slate is premium, long-lived (75–100+ years), and heavy. Composite alternatives mimic the look at a lower weight and cost, and they’re easier to install. Both suit steep, architecturally prominent roofs.
Flat and low-slope systems. Where shingles aren’t appropriate, single-ply membranes like TPO, PVC, and EPDM dominate, along with modified bitumen and built-up roofs. Selection turns on climate, foot traffic, reflectivity needs, and detailing around penetrations.
When deciding, weigh climate, roof pitch, structural capacity, HOA rules, and total cost of ownership—not just the initial bid. Ask about wind ratings, impact resistance, algae protection, and available color/solar reflectance ratings.
Replacement
1) Assessment and scope. A contractor inspects shingles, flashing, decking, ventilation, and attic conditions. You’ll discuss tear-off versus overlay; many codes allow one layer over another, but full tear-off is usually recommended to expose hidden damage and reset flashing correctly.
2) Estimate and contract. You’ll receive a written proposal covering materials, underlayment type, flashing details, ventilation plan, disposal, roofing accessories (ice-and-water shield, drip edge), schedule, and warranties (material and workmanship). Clarify who pulls permits and handles HOA submissions.
3) Pre-construction prep. Schedule the job and protect the property. Crews typically cover landscaping, move patio items, and drop a dumpster. Inside, remove fragile items from walls/ceilings; vibrations happen. Park cars away from the work zone.
4) Tear-off and inspection. Old roofing and underlayment come off. Decking (sheathing) is checked for rot or delamination and replaced as needed. This is where change orders can arise—good contracts explain unit prices for sheathing replacement.
5) Dry-in and flashing. A synthetic or felt underlayment is installed to temporarily “dry-in” the house. Ice-and-water membrane goes at eaves, valleys, and around penetrations in cold or storm-prone regions. Drip edge, valley metal, and new flashings (step, counter, pipe boots, chimney saddles/crickets) are fitted. Reusing old flashing is a false economy unless it’s truly integral masonry flashing in perfect shape.
6) Ventilation and intake. Proper airflow prevents condensation and extends shingle life. Balanced systems pair soffit intake with ridge or roof-mounted exhaust. Many contractors add a continuous ridge vent during reroofing; some homes need baffles in the attic to keep insulation from blocking soffits.
7) Roof covering installation. Crews lay shingles, panels, tile, or membrane per manufacturer specifications—course staggering, fastener counts, sealant use, and exposure lines all matter for warranty and performance. For metal and tile, specialty trim and fastening patterns are crucial in high-wind zones.
8) Detailing and penetrations. Skylights, vents, satellite mounts, and solar standoffs are flashed and sealed. If you’re planning solar within a year, consider pre-installing flashable standoffs now to avoid disturbing the new roof later.
9) Cleanup and magnet sweep. Good crews police nails and debris daily, then do a final magnet sweep, gutter cleanout, and yard walk-through. Dumpster and material pallets are removed.
10) Final inspection and paperwork. The contractor or local inspector verifies code compliance. You receive warranty documents, proof of materials, and a paid invoice. Register any manufacturer warranty within the required window.
Summed Up
Most asphalt shingle replacements take one to three days once work begins; complex roofs, tile, slate, and metal take longer. Costs vary by material, roof size and complexity, local labor, and required decking repairs. To protect your investment, choose a licensed, insured contractor with manufacturer certifications, ask for recent local references, and insist on a detailed scope that specifies underlayment, flashing replacement, ventilation strategy, and waste handling. Plan for a small contingency (often 5–10%) for hidden sheathing repairs.
Finally, maintain your new roof: keep gutters clear, trim overhanging branches, check penetrations after major storms, and watch attic humidity. A well-designed system with sound ventilation and flashing is quietly uneventful—and that’s exactly what you want from a new roof.